Never before have I been so enthralled by a book, especially a cookbook. Alice Toklas’s cookbook is anything but ordinary. It’s a captivating collection of true stories about cooking for friends in Paris, including Thornton Wilder, Picasso, and Matisse, and friends cooking for her and her partner Gertrude Stein, with recipes sprinkled throughout.
Each recipe is a personal narrative, detailing when it was cooked, where, and who she was with when she ate it. The backdrop is set in southern France just before the dark days of Hitler’s occupation.
When urged to leave France for America, Toklas’s partner, Gertrude Stein, responded in a testament to her love for food and the discomfort she was willing to endure. She was quoted as saying,” Well, I don’t know. Moving back would be awfully uncomfortable, and I would be fussy about my food. Let’s not leave.”
So, Toklas and Stein stayed in France, even though Thornton “Thornie” Wilder had procured a safe place for the women in Greenwich Village.
Instead, they left Paris and headed for Bugey near the Swiss border, where they rationed food and cigarettes and made somewhat questionable friendships.
Some have even argued that Stein’s insistence on not leaving France explains her relationship with the Vichy regime, an authoritarian puppet regime that governed the southeast of France and collaborated with the Axis powers, and her unlikely friendship with Marshal Phillipe Pétain.
Perhaps, in a desperate bid for survival, Stein, a Jewish lesbian like Toklas, worked for the regime as a propagandist. No one can say for certain, but they were more than cared for and given everything they needed (ration coupons for meat and butter) to survive the harsh winter months. Toklas even said, ‘The occupation wasn’t so bad,’ they were ‘some of the happiest years of her life.’ She spoke of getting food from some of her friends in the resistance, leading many to believe that the two women did what they had to do to survive.
I make no judgment; I am simply an entertained and fascinated observer and recipe lover. Before Toklas’ cookbook, which richly details the French mentality toward eating and how deeply their beliefs and traditions are observed through food, I had only read Julia Child’s The Art of French Cooking. Her beef bourguignon recipe is the backdrop for my mushroom bourguignon, which is one of my favorites! I remember the first time I made it; the aroma filled my kitchen, and I was transported to the French countryside.
When I stumbled upon Ms. Toklas’s recipe for Oeufs Fracais Picaba and she cheekily instructed the reader to quote, “Pour the eggs into a saucepan—yes, a saucepan, no, not a frying pan,” it was a moment of pure amusement! Her book was a treasure trove of wit and wisdom, and I eagerly turned the pages.
The book also made me hungry, and no, not for mutton. I craved the rich and savory flavors associated with Cuisine Française, the thick, hardy bread, and the ‘amalgamation’ of flavors she spoke of in her book. The concept of ‘amalgamation’ in French cuisine is about the harmonious blending of different flavors and ingredients to create a unique and delightful taste.
The French were never one for substitutions; they wouldn’t use lamb if they didn’t have mutton for a mutton recipe. They are strict observers of tradition and refuse to substitute or sacrifice an ingredient for necessity or simplicity’s sake.
But let’s be honest—this isn’t 1920s France, and I’m just a hungry soul! So, I decided to whip up a dish inspired by Toklas’s book, possibly making her turn over in her grave. Starting with a petit French baguette, I marinated mashed avocado in lime juice and salt to create a creamy base (in place of pâté) for my spicy Herbs de Provence BBQ tofu.
A take on a banh mi, a Vietnamese sandwich that originated during the French colonial period in Vietnam and is a fusion of French and Vietnamese culinary traditions, I decided to buck the French tradition of convention and go renegade.
The Herbs de Provence mixed with dijon mustard, garlic, molasses, tomato paste, and red wine vinegar is reminiscent of a Poulet au Vinaigre, but instead of chicken, I used tofu. I topped the sandwich with cucumber marinated in red wine vinegar and salt, petits épinards (baby spinach), and a remoulade, or spicy French mayo. “Twas delicious!
By the way, I’m back on Instagram under @chefsteph_stl and am grateful for the four-month break. Social media and I have never really gotten along, but this time, I’m going to post on my own terms. It will be a mix of all things: food, music, travel, and philosophy!
As always, tag me if you make it.
XO,
Steph
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Pan Seared Tofu Bahn Mi with Herbs de Provence BBQ Sauce
Description
A fusion of cultures, this French-inspired sandwich is a cross between a Vietnamese bahn mi and a New Orleans-style po boy. The flavors meld together wonderfully and create a super hearty and delicous sandwich!
Ingredients
For the BBQ Tofu:
- 400g (14oz) extra-firm tofu, drained
- 1 Tbsp tomato purée
- 1 Tbsp Dijon Mustard
- 2 tbsp hoisin sauce
- 2 tbsp maple syrup
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp soy sauce, tamari, or liquid aminos
- 2 tsp sesame oil
- 1/2 tsp paprika
- 1/8 tsp Herbs de Provence
- 1/8 tsp each salt + pepper
Sandwich:
- 1/3 cucumber, sliced
- 1 lime, juice only
- 1 avocado
Remoulade:
- 2 tsp Sriracha or tabasco sauce
- 3 tbsp vegan mayonnaise
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 1 tsp vegan Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tsp. Cajun seasoning mix
- 2 Tbsp fresh parsley, minced
- 2 demi baguettes, sliced lengthwise, and lightly toasted
- 2 handfuls of baby spinach
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 425°F and line a baking tray with parchment paper so it covers the sides.
- Slice the tofu into 4 rectangular pieces. Score each piece in a criss-cross pattern, then transfer them to the baking tray.
- Combine the tomato paste, Dijon, hoisin sauce, maple syrup, soy sauce, garlic cloves, red wine vinegar, sesame oil, spices, salt, freshly ground black pepper, and 2 Tbsp of water in a bowl. Then, pour the sauce over the tofu pieces and use a spoon to push it into the grooves.
- Bake the tofu for 15 minutes. Then, spoon the sauce collected in the tray over the top of the tofu and bake for a further 20 minutes.
- Meanwhile, add the sliced cucumber to a bowl with the juice from half of the lime and a small pinch of salt and pepper. Mix, then leave to one side to pickle.
- Slice the avocado in half, remove the stone, and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Add the juice from the remaining half of the lime and mash until smooth.
- Next, combine Sriarcha, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worchestershire sauce, Cajun seasoning, and parsley in a bowl.
- When you’re ready to build the sandwiches, slice the baguettes in half lengthwise and lightly toast. Spoon the mashed avocado across the bottom halves, then top with the spinach leaves, tofu, and cucumber, and add remoulade to the top halves of the baguettes.
- Enjoy!
